8/12/17 A Rocky Ride
The old adage "If you don't like the weather in Colorado, stick around for 10 minutes" proved so very true today.
Into a cloudless sky, we set out from Craig toward what would be our last major climb of the trip, Rocky Mt. National Park. This massive chain of ancient tectonic movement charmed us in British Columbia and called to us again in Colorado. One of our favorite National Parks, it was hard not to answer.
A stop to buy wine and cheese gleaned us a weather report that we had failed to catch at home - rain was coming! When I asked if it would hit the park, the answer was, elevation adds likelihood and severity! Outside the sky told a different tale.
Then as we approached, thunderheads roiled at the top of the mountain, angry and ominous. Deep rumblings accompanied our lunch as we anxiously watched the direction of the clouds. Deciding to be precautious, we suited up; wet and cold at 12,000' is no joke. At Grand Lake the rain hit us and we ducked into the visitor's center for shelter. Then the hail came. Worried for Rascals complexion, we were still so thankful that we were not on the bike being pelted by ice balls!
As the rain and hail lessened, we decided it was time to make a break for it. The only way out was over the pass and we were going to chance it. Slightly jealous of other travelers in shorts and tank tops, I waddled to the bike in all my layers, wiped the hailstones off the seat and strained to lift my leg and flop on. My discomfort was increased by distrust of this climb as I shook inside my cocoon.
Then we entered the park and my fears were immediately allayed as placid elk watched us pass and patches of blue broke open over the mountain. On other rides here, I was always amazed at how each curve presented a more spectacular view than the last. Today the sky was the show as lightening laden clouds threatened at one turn, then brilliant sun blinded us at the next. Riding in severe weather is always a crapshoot and today we beat the odds. As we relaxed into the narrow road, dropping off into infinity with no guardrail, the elements were overshadowed by the stunning vista allowed to us. Far above the tree line, we peaked out, shivering as the temperature dropped into the 40's. Was ice possible?
Gearing down into Estes Park where fair weather and rising temperatures prevailed, we baked in our layers of clothing as a snarl of tourist traffic saw us sitting through interminable stop lights. Finally shucking our gear, we rode unencumbered into one of my best-loved runs, the Big Thompson Canyon. Carved for millennia by this famed river, a Mecca for trout fishermen, the canyon walls rise high above the road, sometimes even blocking the sky. In 2013, a flash flood, still recorded as Colorado's worst, scored the canyon further. Today the reconstruction of the road and cottages along it still goes on, proof of the inherent power of this seemingly benign and beautiful stream.
Our expulsion from the Rockies was abrupt and harsh. The walls of the canyon ended suddenly and we were thrown into the flattened farmscape surrounding Loveland. The only vestiges of our day were the outlines of the mountains with their ever present storm cloud, in our rear view mirror.
In Kersey for the night, we are parked next to pickups and cow haulers. There is a distinct odor of cattle ranches in the air. Dinner at a local dive entertained us as an old cowboy sporting spurs and the required Stetson, cut a mean rug on the dance floor.
Our chancy ride onto the stormy mountain has rejuvenated me once again. The thrill of riding into the angry clouds, open and unprotected, is terrifying yet intoxicating. Experiencing it glued to my hero and road warrior, Jules, exhilarated me even more. As we descended into reality, the euphoria remained and I will carry it close to my heart as we head into the long flat haul to the East.
Into a cloudless sky, we set out from Craig toward what would be our last major climb of the trip, Rocky Mt. National Park. This massive chain of ancient tectonic movement charmed us in British Columbia and called to us again in Colorado. One of our favorite National Parks, it was hard not to answer.
A stop to buy wine and cheese gleaned us a weather report that we had failed to catch at home - rain was coming! When I asked if it would hit the park, the answer was, elevation adds likelihood and severity! Outside the sky told a different tale.
Then as we approached, thunderheads roiled at the top of the mountain, angry and ominous. Deep rumblings accompanied our lunch as we anxiously watched the direction of the clouds. Deciding to be precautious, we suited up; wet and cold at 12,000' is no joke. At Grand Lake the rain hit us and we ducked into the visitor's center for shelter. Then the hail came. Worried for Rascals complexion, we were still so thankful that we were not on the bike being pelted by ice balls!
As the rain and hail lessened, we decided it was time to make a break for it. The only way out was over the pass and we were going to chance it. Slightly jealous of other travelers in shorts and tank tops, I waddled to the bike in all my layers, wiped the hailstones off the seat and strained to lift my leg and flop on. My discomfort was increased by distrust of this climb as I shook inside my cocoon.
Then we entered the park and my fears were immediately allayed as placid elk watched us pass and patches of blue broke open over the mountain. On other rides here, I was always amazed at how each curve presented a more spectacular view than the last. Today the sky was the show as lightening laden clouds threatened at one turn, then brilliant sun blinded us at the next. Riding in severe weather is always a crapshoot and today we beat the odds. As we relaxed into the narrow road, dropping off into infinity with no guardrail, the elements were overshadowed by the stunning vista allowed to us. Far above the tree line, we peaked out, shivering as the temperature dropped into the 40's. Was ice possible?
Gearing down into Estes Park where fair weather and rising temperatures prevailed, we baked in our layers of clothing as a snarl of tourist traffic saw us sitting through interminable stop lights. Finally shucking our gear, we rode unencumbered into one of my best-loved runs, the Big Thompson Canyon. Carved for millennia by this famed river, a Mecca for trout fishermen, the canyon walls rise high above the road, sometimes even blocking the sky. In 2013, a flash flood, still recorded as Colorado's worst, scored the canyon further. Today the reconstruction of the road and cottages along it still goes on, proof of the inherent power of this seemingly benign and beautiful stream.
Our expulsion from the Rockies was abrupt and harsh. The walls of the canyon ended suddenly and we were thrown into the flattened farmscape surrounding Loveland. The only vestiges of our day were the outlines of the mountains with their ever present storm cloud, in our rear view mirror.
In Kersey for the night, we are parked next to pickups and cow haulers. There is a distinct odor of cattle ranches in the air. Dinner at a local dive entertained us as an old cowboy sporting spurs and the required Stetson, cut a mean rug on the dance floor.
Our chancy ride onto the stormy mountain has rejuvenated me once again. The thrill of riding into the angry clouds, open and unprotected, is terrifying yet intoxicating. Experiencing it glued to my hero and road warrior, Jules, exhilarated me even more. As we descended into reality, the euphoria remained and I will carry it close to my heart as we head into the long flat haul to the East.
How the day started
Mountains appear
Our first "peak" at the Rockies
The road winds into forever
Ominous clouds over Grand Lake
Suiting up
Watching the hail fall on Rascal
Hail yes!
Into the clouds of Rocky Mt. National Park
Elk!!!
Every turn looks worse and the thunder didn't stop
Stone scraper to keep roads clear
Then blue sky
Angry skies at the next switchback
Leaning into the valley
Scarier..
And scarier
Then blue sky
Goodbye stormy mountains
Big Jules by the Big Thompson
One of my favorite rides
The Big Thompson keeps carving away
Through the canyon walls
A new world
Shock and awe
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